An important naval facility in the days when Britannia ruled the waves, today's Dockyard has a much more carefree ambience.
A Walk Through History
If these old stone walls could speak, what stories they would tell! Visiting the lively 75-acre Royal Naval Dockyard today, it's difficult to imagine that it was once Britain's largest naval facility outside the United Kingdom, staffed by naval personnel focused on the serious business of protecting their country's interests in the Western Atlantic.
Dockyard's history began when the British, recovering from the loss of several key ports following the American War for Independence, decided to establish an impressive naval presence in Sandys (pronounced "Sands") Parish in the West End. Located at the very tip of fishhook-shaped Bermuda, the site was an inspired choice — offering plenty of mooring space and room to erect a massive facility for maintenance.
In 1809, Royal Engineers began designing Dockyard as a facility that would allow Britain to keep an eye on its shipping interests and protect its vessels from threats by pirates, whilst simultaneously monitoring developments in its former colonies. Slave labourers and convicts were pressed into service to construct its wharves and buildings, including barracks and a massive fortified Keep well-stocked with gunpowder. Although the work would continue for decades, by the War of 1812, the British fleet was feeling sufficiently strong to sail from Dockyard to the U.S., where, in one of the most dramatic moments of the war, the troops ransacked and burned Washington.
Over the years, world politics and alliances changed. Britain and the U.S. became the strongest of allies and remain so to this day. Bermuda's Dockyard played important roles in both World Wars, and when it shut down in 1951, its closing marked the end of a proud maritime tradition. The Bermuda government reclaimed Dockyard and the land on which it stood. Then, for almost three decades, the stone buildings sat empty and dormant — an almost-forgotten reminder of a glorious seafaring past.
Dockyard Today
Royal Naval Dockyard currently serves Bermuda residents and international visitors in an entirely different and considerably more light-hearted way. The erstwhile naval buildings are now home to shops and restaurants, and the expansive grounds provide ample space for picnics, walks and special events such as concerts and festivals. WEDCO, the West End Development Corporation, has been largely responsible for the changes in Dockyard, developing the area as an intriguing place to visit or to live. (234-1709, www.wedco.bm)
An exciting event takes place at Dockyard each Monday evening from May 12-October 13, from 7-11 p.m. Sponsored by WEDCO and the Bermuda Department of Tourism and hosted by the Bermuda Chamber of Commerce and Royal Caribbean Cruise Lines, Destination Dockyard is a not-to-be-missed evening of music and dance. Shops stay open late, and many vendors are on hand to greet visitors stepping off the ferry (a special ferry operates from Hamilton for this event). Watch for the Gombey dancers in their unique sequined and beribboned costumes. Their drumming and dance routines honour Bermuda's diverse heritage.
Although great changes have come to Dockyard recently, echoes of its maritime past can still be heard in the gentle lapping of the water on the shore, in laughter rippling from pleasure boats plying the turquoise water and in the deep-throated horn blasts of cruise ships anchored nearby.
Let's Explore!
Begin with a leisurely walk through Dockyard's beautifully landscaped grounds. Or for a real island experience, rent a scooter from Oleander Cycles, Bermuda's number-one cycle livery offering quality scooters at competitive rates. In Dockyard, Oleander Cycles is located at Cockburn Road (234-2764). They also operate at Valley Road, Paget (236-BIKE); Gorham Road, Hamilton (295-0919); Middle Road, Southampton (234-0629); and York Street, St. George (297-0478). The Dockyard location is open when cruise ships are in port. Visit www.oleandercycles.bm for more information. Those who choose this way of getting around the island should remember, first and foremost, that Bermudians drive on the left! Also, keep in mind that you should be adept at riding a bicycle before attempting a scooter, and you should ride with caution on Bermuda's narrow streets. The safety-conscious staff at Oleander will also give first-time users helpful safety tips about navigating roundabouts (traffic circles), observing the island's 35-kilometres (22 miles)-per-hour speed limit and parking only in marked bays. Bermuda law requires all scooter and moped drivers to wear helmets. Be sure to allow time for a practice spin around the cycle rental area before setting off to explore Dockyard or the rest of the island.
A good first stop is the 6-acre Bermuda Maritime Museum housed in the former Keep and entered by way of a bridge across a moat. Visitors feel transported into the past as they admire vaulted ceilings and 300-foot tall ramparts. As one might imagine, in an ordnance building built to store munitions and large quantities of gunpowder, the unusual floors made of bitumen to prevent sparks were a critical detail. Of special interest is the interior waterway, where small boats were loaded with munitions to ferry to larger boats anchored offshore.
Within the museum, artefacts reflecting Bermuda's rich seafaring history are on display. Don't miss the restored 1856 Dockyard clock with its 9-foot pendulum, three bells and elegant brass works. The museum is open daily from 9:30 a.m.-5 p.m., with the last admission at 4 p.m. Admission: Adults $10; seniors $8; children 5-15, $5; under 5, free. (234-1418, www.bmm.bm)
Have you ever dreamed of swimming with dolphins? Located at the Maritime Museum is Dolphin Quest Bermuda, where you can embark on a journey into the intriguing world of the dolphin through face-to-face encounters both in the water and dockside. Discover an atmosphere of adventure including both education and a wide range of encounters for adults, children, families and groups. Dolphin Quest Bermuda is open daily from 9:30 a.m.-4:30 p.m. Reserve your encounter soon! (234-4464, www.dolphinquest.org)
Before leaving the Maritime Museum grounds, visit the Commissioner's House, a grand home built in 1823 and now housing changing exhibitions devoted to Bermuda's history. The views from the Commissioner's House are outstanding, so be sure to bring a camera.
Bermuda Memories
When it's time for a little shopping, perhaps for a special memento of Bermuda for yourself or a loved one back home, stroll along Maritime Lane, which runs around the far end of the Dockyard. It will bring you to the diverse artisans, exhibits and historical delights of the Bermuda Arts Centre. Voted Best of Bermuda "Best Art Gallery 2006," it is one of the island's premier galleries. It features both traditional and contemporary art, all created by local artists. On location are four working studios where you can meet the artists and see them at work, including an oil painter, a cedar wood sculptor, a jeweller, and textile and ceramic artists. The gallery also has a large selection of prints and locally crafted gifts, ensuring no one need leave empty-handed. Open daily, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. (234-2809, www.artbermuda.bm)
Also on Maritime Lane is the main entrance of the former Cooperage building, where dockyard coopers made barrels for shipboard storage of salted beef and fresh water. Here you will find the Bermuda Craft Market.
The Bermuda Department of Tourism and the Bermuda Chamber of Commerce established the craft market in 1987. It is the largest, most extensive craft outlet in the islands, featuring the works of 60 Bermudians. Every day, you will find artists here who are happy to explain their crafts as you watch them work. Many will produce customised crafts for a unique gift. Candles, Bermuda cedar work, ceramics, jewellery, fabric art, painted glassware, three-dimensional decoupage, needlework canvases, Christmas ornaments and quilts are just some of the items available. The co-operative is open daily from 9:30 a.m.-5 p.m. in summer, and from 10 a.m.-5 p.m. in winter; operating hours may vary on Sundays and public holidays. (234-3208)
You'll be able to sense your next attraction from the delicious aroma. Follow your nose to the Bermuda Rum Cake Factory! Enjoy a taste of the islands with traditional rum cakes baked in "The Cakery," a microbakery custom-designed for this island indulgence. Rum cakes here are made exclusively with Bermuda's signature Gosling's Black Seal rum. Back at home, indulge yourself with a mouth-watering duty-free cake. Flavours include traditional black rum, rum and ginger, rum swizzle, banana rum, coffee, coconut rum and rich, dark chocolate rum. (234-4216, www.bermudarumcakes.com)
Your tour is just heating up. Just steps from the ovens of the Bermuda Rum Cake Bakery, temperatures rise as you approach Dockyard Glassworks. At this spacious studio, artists tempt your senses with their glass creations. Visitors may relax in an "armchair theatre" and watch for hours as craftsmen create fantasies from molten glass. Then you can purchase Bermuda glass collectibles such as a whistling tree frog, "honeymoon hogs" and multicoloured fish and birds. Open daily 8 a.m.-6 p.m., and until 9 p.m. when ships are docked in Dockyard. (234-4216, www.dockglass.com)
Time for a Break
So much walking and shopping can make a person hungry, so when it's time for a bite to eat, enjoy one of Dockyard's many fine restaurants.
Owned and operated by Bermudians, the award-winning Beethoven's Restaurant & Bar offers a casual, intimate atmosphere with sophisticated cuisine at moderate prices. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. (234-5009)
Dockyard's newest dining experience is at Bone Fish Bar & Grill. With an exquisite view of Bermuda's breezy Great Sound, an award-winning, top-rated chef at the helm, plenty of fresh fish and top-grade meats, how can you go wrong? Bone Fish Bar & Grill offers locals and tourists alike a reasonably priced menu with seafood, homemade pasta, great wines from around the world, draft beer and desserts to die for. Dine in the main restaurant or alfresco on the sun-drenched deck. All are welcome at the newest, happening place to eat in Dockyard. (234-5151)
The casual Freeport Seafood Restaurant and Sushi Bar serves up fresh local fish and other family favourites. Surf the web or e-mail your friends at one of four computer terminals in the Cyber Café. Located just inside the Dockyard gate, Freeport caters to all appetites and budgets. (234-1692)
Step back in time and drink up the historic atmosphere in the English pub-style Frog & Onion in the Cooperage. At this unique pub you can enjoy casual meals or elegant dinners. Children love the large game room. Also, join us for one of our fine brews from our on-premises microbrewery, The Dockyard Brewing Company. (234-2900)
Come join us at Hammerheads Bar, Bermuda's newest hot spot for day and night enjoyment. Sample local rum potions as you gaze over the turquoise seas. Feeling hungry? Jut pop on downstairs to the grill for a variety of tasty dishes and snacks. (234-1300)
No visit to the Royal Naval Dockyard is complete without a visit to the Nannini Häagen-Dazs Ice Cream Parlour. Open seven days a week and featuring only Häagen-Dazs ice cream, sorbets and frozen yogurt. Treat yourself to one of the 16 flavours in a cone, sundae or milkshake. It can even be packed for you to take home. We also offer a variety of indulgences from Italy. So give yourself a treat and visit the Nannini Häagen-Dazs Ice Cream Parlour. (234-2474)
Take to the Water
After several hours of shopping or exploring beneath Bermuda's bright sunshine, Dockyard's beautiful ocean backdrop will entice many visitors to test the waters for themselves. Come and discover all of the exciting features of Snorkel Park. Located just minutes away from the bus and ferry stops, visitors will gasp in surprise as they emerge through a limestone tunnel onto a tropical beach setting, complete with an array of modern beach equipment and amenities.
Whether you're looking just to kick back and relax, or want to have some active fun, Snorkel Park is not to be missed. From snorkel gear, paddleboats and kayaks to inflatable toys and water slides for the kids, we have something for everyone. The more adventurous visitors can try the fun new underwater scooters, take a "Snuba Tour" or hop aboard a banana boat for a wet and wild ride over open water. Beneath the waves, you can explore the wonders of the natural coral reef, showcasing beautiful tropical fish and a sunken sloop, appropriately named Seahorse. Admission to Snorkel Park is free, and the friendly staff will do their best to make your visit a memorable one. Looking forward to seeing you soon! (234-6989)
For an entirely different kind of seagoing adventure, this time aboard an amphibious vehicle, check out Shark Eye Tours. Here's what one participant had to say about the experience: "Awesome is the word I would use to describe the ride. The feeling of the vehicle leaving the ramp and then floating on the sea was nothing I've ever experienced in my life. I've toured the Dockyard area by boat before, but to do a land and sea tour on one vehicle is another story. I advise residents and tourists alike to take the adventure and be witness to a new way of travel around Bermuda. I can't wait to go again. This isn't just a tour, it's an experience."
Come on board, sit back and relax as our Tour Captain turns back the pages of history. Seeing the parish of Sandys Bermuda from land is one thing; viewing it from the Great Sound is quite another. (747-4275, www.sharkeyetours.com)
Getting There
Now that you know all that Dockyard has to offer, you need to know how to get there. Keep in mind that because of the busy streets and limited parking, there are no car rentals in Bermuda. Public ferries and buses provide easy access to Dockyard. An early morning ferry ride can be a memorable experience as visitors mix with locals en route to work and the sun rises on another perfect day. Or take a leisurely and scenic Bermuda Breeze bus ride from Hamilton via routes #7 or #8.
A pink or blue pole typically indicates bus stops. If the pole is blue, the bus travels from Hamilton; if the pole is pink, the direction of the route is towards Hamilton. You must have exact fare in coins if you pay cash; bills are not accepted. Bermuda is divided into 14 bus zones. Trips up to three zones cost $3; longer trips are $4.50. Children ages 5-16 ride for $2; children under 5 ride free. You may purchase bus passes, tickets or tokens in advance. These are available at retailers around the island. The cost is $2.50 for three zones and $4 for up to 14 zones. Change, tokens, tickets, multiday passes and bus schedules are available at the Central Bus Terminal on Washington Street, near City Hall in Hamilton. Tokens may also be purchased at any post office or Visitors' Information Centre.
Bermuda's Sea Express ferry is fast and comfortable, with regular stops at Dockyard. From April 7-October 31, the ferry also offers a direct trip between St. George's and Dockyard. The one-way fare is $4 for adults and $2 for children (ages 5-16; under 5 ride for free). This route can also carry cycles at a cost of $4. If travelling on the ferry, please ensure you have purchased your tickets, tokens or passes in advance to travel on all routes since cash is not accepted.
On Monday nights in summer, there is a special 7 p.m. ferry departure from Hamilton to Dockyard for those attending Destination Dockyard, in addition to the usual Hamilton to Dockyard ferry schedule (click here for details).
The most popular method of payment for visitors is the Transportation Pass, which is good for unlimited rides on the bus and ferry systems. Passes cost $12 for one day, $20 for two days, $28 for three days, $35 for four days and $45 for seven days.
Call 292-3851 for bus information and 295-4506 for ferry information. For more information, log on to view bus routes or www.seaexpress.bm.
If going by taxi, rates start at $6.40 for the first mile and up to four passengers.
DID YOU KNOW? The Dockyard Keep was used to store gunpowder and ammunition for the British Royal Navy.
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