In the Wake of Old Rattle and Shake

You can't ride the old Bermuda Railway any more, but following its trail is an unforgettable journey.

By Heidi Pike

Listen! The train's coming! You can hear it rumbling through the woods, over the cliffs and past the dunes. You can even feel the ground vibrating through your shoes. No wonder they called the Bermuda Railway "Old Rattle and Shake."

Sadly, that's an experience that's no longer available to Bermuda tourists. Bermuda's famous train ran out of steam a long time ago. Now its fabled route is a nature trail, and if you follow it, you'll be rewarded with a wealth of scenic sights. The Bermuda Railway Trail is perfect for those who like to stroll, hike, jog or ride bicycles. The old rail line is divided in seven sections, and each takes an hour and a half to three hours to walk. Along the way, you can enjoy native plants and spectacular views or simply take in Bermuda's perfect weather.

The story of the Bermuda Railway is long and checkered. In 1922, after decades of haggling and planning, Bermuda began constructing the rail line from Sandys Parish in the west to St. Georges in the east.

But there were problems from the start: The government had trouble raising funds for the train, and many residents refused to relinquish land to accommodate the line.

As a result, planners had to draw the route along the coast, which led to more problems. For example, they had to design 33 trestle bridges, six of them over water, as well as swing bridges, long tunnels, loops and unmanned crossings. The project was finally completed in 1931. Mile-per-mile, it was, at $1 million, the costliest railroad ever built. The project also holds the dubious title of "slowest rate of construction." Builders created just two and a half miles a year.

Bermudians abandoned their horse-drawn carriages and bicycles in favour of the train. Locals even gave it a nickname: Old Rattle and Shake. But the enterprise was short-lived. During World War II, military troops commandeered the railway and, because parts were sparse at that time, they began stripping the train. The line soon fell into disrepair. The train ran for the last time in Bermuda on May 1, 1948. Then the Bermuda government sold the train and tracks to British Guiana rather than spend a fortune to repair it.

Bermuda created a bus service to replace the train, but the government did keep most of the railway route free from development. The route became a National Park in the 1980s.

The Bermuda Department of Tourism has published an excellent booklet on the railway trail, with maps and descriptions. Pick up a copy at your hotel concierge or at the Bermuda Department of Tourism offices on Church St. in Hamilton.

Also check out the Bermuda Railway Museum in the old Aquarium station just east of the Bermuda Aquarium Museum and Zoo. It offers Bermuda Railway memorabilia, antiques, gifts and collectables.

But perhaps the best way to experience Old Rattle and Shake is to pause along its scenic route, close your eyes and imagine. Listen! The train's coming!

DID YOU KNOW? Bermuda has about 155 miles of roadways.

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