SSt. George Market Nights

Olde Town is at its most festive on Tuesday evenings in season. Times may vary slightly, depending on cruise ship schedules, but usually St. George Market Nights come to life about 7 p.m. By 7:30, the music swells and the elaborately garbed Town Crier formally opens the evening by ceremoniously sentencing a "nagging wench" to the dunking stool. In a hilarious skit, the "goodwife," dressed in 18th-century costume, simply won't shut up. She continues to carp and complain until she's dragged to the dunking stool, just as she would have been in St. George's early days. Repeated dunkings in the harbour finally cool her "ire."

The dunking stool is used on special occasions such as Market Night, some ship arrivals and noon each Saturday, but the stocks and pillories are always on the square for visitor use. Bring your camera so you can photograph every member of the family with head and hands in the "lock-up."

Market Night entertainment varies weekly, but it's sure to be a grass-roots treat: steel bands, folk dancers, Gombeys, clowns, buskers and so on. As popular with locals as it is with tourists, the weekly street gala features about 50 stalls selling everything from baked goods to arts and folk crafts. It's the perfect opportunity to buy a keepsake and to be part of a community by sharing its food, humour, music and moods.

In addition to flavourful favourites such as grilled chicken, meat pies or tarts, look for truly local specialties such as Bermudian Cassava Pie, Rum Swizzle, Dark 'n Stormy, shark hash, fish cakes, loquat jam, bay grape jelly, codfish and bananas, mussel pie, guava syllabub, treats made from the local Surinam cherries and probably more than one version of the fish chowder that is a national passion. Each chef proclaims his or her fish chowder the very best. In fact, competing for "best of" fish chowder is a regular event. In-the-know visitors sprinkle it liberally with rum and Outerbridge's sherry pepper.

Each week brings new discoveries at Market Night, depending on which merchants and entertainers are there. The best part is not just the food and entertainment, but also chatting with vendors to learn what makes Bermuda honey unique, what goes into their beloved codfish cakes, how to make shandy or shrub, what is ginger beer and all your other questions about their beloved island.

For the children, Market Night offers henna tattoos, hair braiding and perhaps face painting or balloon animals. Everything emanates from the Town Square, of course, but don't miss the surrounding streets. Merchants stay open late, displays spill over into the streets and prices are often discounted in honour of the event.

For more information, contact the Corporation of St. George at 297-1532.

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